cutback shaders

styles · #1 02-25-2010, 05:20 PM

I wanted to know the advantages of using a cutback shader vrs a standard shader. it seems it would benefit the the mid to light grays.

the reason I ask is, I have a guy who builds me custom brass machines. he is a great builder and he gives me a great price on his machines. he usually comes in the shop and ask me "what do i want the machine to do, or check this one out"

so he recently made me a shader and said "i been watching your hand speed and you move pretty fast, so try this shader out. it will make your greys smoother" I was trying to make my grays alot smoother so I was interested. the font spring was alot shorter then what I'm use to. even though it had a heavy a bar it was fast.

so I have 2 questions concerning this style of machine.

1, should I run the voltage lower to make it bog down like a normal shader or glide the needles on high to medium voltage?

2, how much throw should I have? the gap is about a dime but the rear spring tension makes the throw a little over a dime.

this set up slightly contradicts what I was original taught. it would be nice to get alittle insight on it before I try it out. I use long taper curved and long taper standard 13 mags. thanx. this site rocks

Joe · #2 02-26-2010, 05:17 AM

I've never heard of a cutback shader. Can you post a pic?

JohnnyChaos · #3 02-26-2010, 06:09 AM

definitely good for mid to light greys. the short throw means it's not good for packing in solid blacks.
the resulting speed of the machine means more dots closer together, the throw means less ink. so together equals smoother softer shades.

As for volts and that... sup to you. the one I got hit hard at high volts. I re-sprung it and got it running faster and softer which suited me better.

travelingtom · #4 02-26-2010, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe

I've never heard of a cutback shader. Can you post a pic?

its not a cutback shader, its a cutback liner being used as a shader. lots of people use them. very fast and small air gap means it will hit soft so you dont tear up skin. i love the s&!t out of mine.

Beamish417 · #5 02-26-2010, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe

I've never heard of a cutback shader. Can you post a pic?

http://www.martini-machines.com/limited.htm

travelingtom · #6 02-26-2010, 01:18 PM

thats not a cut back!!!! cut back refers to the front spring being "cut back" a cutback machine has a very short front spring, being short makes it very stiff, allowing it to run very fast.

travelingtom · #7 02-26-2010, 01:24 PM

this is a cut back

Beamish417 · #8 02-26-2010, 02:00 PM

Huh guess you learn something new everyday. I thought it had to do with the frame geometry.

So this would be a true cutback shader then..

travelingtom · #9 02-26-2010, 02:32 PM

styles · #10 02-26-2010, 03:06 PM

wow! great replies. the reason I ask about the voltage is because, I was worried about hanging up in the skin.

I'm not asking for so much on specific voltage. just a rough high or low setting.
meaning, can I hang a lot of needle out, on a low voltage for a nice bog down?

or does it work best of the tube?

or does it work best on high voltage with just gliding the needles?

I really appreciate the replies. with dots being closer. it makes more sense for smoother grays. if thats the case. that will alow me to smooth out my shading with slowing my hand speed down. that would be the best case scenario.

thanx again guys. when I try it on my next piece I'll let you know the results.